Natural Solutions for the Bees of Summer

If this year’s warmer,drier weather continues into our Montana summer, it is likely that we will be seeing more persistently obnoxious bee-type flying insects. These are annoying or downright aggressive wasps and hornets – a.k.a. ‘bald face’ or ‘yellow jackets’ that appear uninvited to disturb festive family picnics, outdoor community events or July 4th BBQ with the neighbors.

Hornets on plate of food

Paper wasp nest at end of summer

Large paper wasp nest toward end of the summer

While distracted from their quest for liquid refreshment and your plate full of food these insects can inflict really painful or even deadly stings to sensitive folks. Take some steps now to reduce their numbers. Look for natural products to eliminate them where they nest. Even discourage wasps before they can begin to nest!

Wasps building brood comb

Wasps building exposed brood comb

So how do we get rid of wasps without using strong chemical pesticides? Are there safer, natural ways to do this? Most of us would prefer not to use toxic pesticides near our homes. Pest removal experts know that most consumers dramatically over apply pesticides. A little goes a long way and more poison is well, too much residual poison and a serious risk -particularly to exposed pets and children.

Bee species, including the more rarely seen honey bee

Please identify the type of large bee you are dealing with and do all you can to avoid killing or spraying honey bees. Bumblebees are seldom aggressive, timid and rarely bothersome.

It is very important to protect sensitive honeybees and other beneficial insects from harsh insecticides, so you want to identify the problem bees carefully and be sure what you are dealing with. If you find that you have honeybees swarming around in large numbers, and they are not in a location that is safe for you (or them), you can seek out area beekeepers who may even remove them for free. Since our valuable honeybee populations are experiencing an alarming decline nationwide, doing what we can to protect every worker honeybee is a good thing.

BEFORE PURCHASING INSECTICIDES– Consider hiring a professional pest removal service to take care of a wasp nest you can’t safely reach from the ground. If you or the kids may be hyper sensitive to wasp stings, stay safely inside while a pro takes on an active wasp nest under the soffit or living in a hole in the ground. Request lowest toxicity products available to the pros.

Natural and Lowest Toxicity Insecticidal Sprays for Home Use. Ecosmart’s Organic Wasp and Hornet killer uses 100 percent, food-grade ingredients. Check out their ingredients here. Product instructions say you should apply this like the old type poisonous RAID spray. If you are comfortable treating the same way as usual but with a more natural spray, this may be your best bet. The Ecosmart product will smell like strong peppermint essential oils instead of RAID, and that feature alone is worthwhile, right? This product is about the same cost as the nastier, harsh chemical pesticides. This products works.

Drowning a Reachable Aerial Nest. This technique is best done during cooler weather or after dark when wasps are sluggish and slower to react. Wearing gloves, place a cloth bag or old pillow case over the entire nest and quickly close it off at the top. As you close, yank the nest free. The cloth bag obviously now should be secured tightly! Set the bag in a large bucket mostly full of water; set a brick on the bag to keep it fully submerged.

Not really wanting to put your hands around a bag of irritated bees? Again, hire a professional pest control service for nests inside walls or in the ground. Spraying water inside the wall of your home will cause you other, larger problems than some angry hornets! Avoid climbing ladders yourself to inspect or take on wasp nest challenges. It is easy to panic around wasps, and being on a ladder is not the place you should want to be and quickly feel the need to flee!

NOTENever, Never, Never use fire and/or flammable solvents for killing wasps. Each year somewhere, well-meaning individuals with torches or cans of solvent, though devoid of common sense, burn down buildings while removing nesting wasps.

Glass Yellow Jacket Traps.  There are also a variety of pretty glass wasp traps that can be helpful in reducing wasp populations in their area. Keep replacing the bait inside, as wasps, like trout, prefer fresh bait. Fragrant oily bait, such as tuna fish juice, will attract the yellow jackets and wasps, but not prescious honeybees, which might be attracted to sweet fruity smells. These artisanal glass traps are actually decorative and collectible. The design is really simple and you may wish to use pop bottles to make your own. Don’t expect it to eliminate all wasps, though.

Camping at a remote location? Take along a few cans of tuna fish packed in water. If wasps show up, place opened tins of tuna some distance away from the picnic table –out of reach of pets or bears, of course.

Hanging Fake Nests.  As a preventive measure many folks have begun using ‘fake wasp nests’ where they annually expect paper wasp nests to show up under eaves or roof lines. These fake nests act as a deterrent to other wasps or hornets. These work because many common wasp species are territorial, and nesting in close proximity to another nest. There are several versions of these. Some look similar to a paper lantern, and others could pass for a real paper wasp nest. Customer reviews are positive online, but fake nests may not be totally effective if you happen to have particularly smart or communal wasps. Reportedly this same deterrent effect can be achieved by simply stapling up a tissue stuffed brown paper bag!

By using these preventative, proactive and all natural solutions for wasps and hornets, you will feel better about protecting your outside environment. Encourage all your neighbors to share in your successful strategy so everyone nearby will benefit from a peaceful and wasp-free back yard.

If you need help locating a qualified pest control service in NW Montana, go online, consult your Yellow Pages or give us a call.

If you have a proven solution to control or reduce wasp problems, we would love to hear from you.

We are FloodCo LLC.  Give us a call at 406-892-1717 or write a comment below.

Posted by Lloy

‘3’ Things Everyone Needs to Know About ‘BLACK’ WATER

Category “3” flood losses are often referred to as ‘BLACK” WATER contamination. This a very common ‘Bio-Hazard’ event in homes and businesses. Contaminated water sources expose humans to severe sickness just with contact or consumption. Grossly unsanitary conditions arise from quantities of sewage or dirty flood water entering a structure. Category “3” sources include:


Black water sceneAdditionally, Black Water can develop from what was initially clean tap water (Category 1) that saturated carpet containing any bacteria and other latent pathogens or toxins, including urine and fecal matter. So, the source of the water intrusion doesn’t by itself determine the contamination level of the loss. The surface in contact with the water can also affect the contamination level. History and characteristics of that water are other factors. Time and Temperature are the property owner’s enemy as Category 1 water becomes Category 2 becomes black Category 3. In around 48 hours.

Water color might be clear or cloudy, brown, or other shades of colors and still be ‘Black Water’.

When porous materials like carpet and pad are saturated with Black Water, these materials should be contained and removed for disposal. The health of the occupants or workers must be a primary concern. Those persons with weak immune systems, allergies or immune systems, respiratory problems, young or elderly should be advised to stay away from a Black Water clean-up site until the property has been sanitized.

Pathogens and toxins from dried Black Water may become airborne as mist or dust during the dry-out process. Breathing pathogens from sewage is extremely risky as they can contain potentially deadly viruses, bacteria, protozoa and other microbes.

Black water cholera
A sewage spill delivers and spreads dangerous bacteria and other pathogenic microorganisms into a living space. This often revolting kind of water damage is classified by disaster pros as Category 3 -Black Water and requires urgent, professional extraction and treatment. FloodCo LLC’s specially trained and IICRC certified technicians quickly remove raw sewage, black water contaminants, and any residual moisture from fixtures, floor and walls. Then we continue treatment to assure the area is deep cleaned, disinfected, deodorized and completely dried out to prevent mold and bacterial growth. We can also help determine the cause of the backup and suggest plumbing repairs to prevent another awful occurrence.

We send our work documentation to your insurance adjuster when there is coverage for the damage. (It is important that you visit with your insurance agent to confirm there is specific and adequate coverage in your homeowners or renters policy. Not all property policies automatically provide this important protection but it can often be added by endorsement without a lot of cost – before a sewer backup claim occurs.)

When a sewer spill occurs, don’t hesitate at all– Call FloodCo LLC. We will respond quickly 24/7 365 days a year (including holidays). We know how urgent a Black Water loss is so will get that mess cleaned up ASAP. We can immediately relieve stress from the situation and remove and protect your contents.                                                   Our phone number is 406 892-1717.  Answered by a FloodCo LLC employee 24/7 any day.

Toilet Leaks Cause Expensive Water Claims – Consider Some Preventive Maintenance

It Could be Time to Replace That Wax Ring Seal Beneath Your Toilet

Does the vinyl or tile flooring around the base of your toilet look stained or even swollen like it could be leaking from underneath the bowl? Is the toilet kind of wobbling on its base? It may need a new seal between the bowl and the drain. The mounting bolts may also need to be replaced or tightened. The water supply line could also be dripping and need to be upgraded with a higher quality line. These are not very expensive maintenance items as long as you don’t wait too long to do them.

Do not delay. Small amounts of black water and sewage leaking from under a toilet can over time cause expensive water damage to the bathroom subfloor or even adjacent walls! (It’s also a serious sanitary issue.)

Are these repairs something homeowners can take on themselves? The answer is probably yes – if you are not squeamish about getting up close and personal with the dirty side of a toilet. Mechanically this is not a difficult or time consuming task if sanitary precautions are taken and you follow some easy steps. Otherwise, call your friendly neighborhood plumber.

Following the steps below will guide you through this first time project.

The Tools & Materials You Will Need


  •  Open end adjustible wrenches or water pump pliers
  •  Toilet Plunger
  •  Wet Dry Shop Vac

Before You Shop for Wax Ring Replacement Supplies

  • If you lift or remove a toilet for any reason, always replace the wax ring seal between the toilet and the toilet anchor flange (sometimes called a closet flange) attached to the floor.
  • Wax? Why wax? Made from a molded wax loop formed around a stubby plastic tube, wax rings are mostly foolproof, inexpensive and shape themselves to fit almost any toilet and floor drain. They also resist mold and bacteria and retain their sealing ability after many years of use. They don’t last forever though, that’s why you are doing this project. If your toilet wobbles even a little bit from side to side or your toilet rocks enough for one side of the base to lift off the floor — even just a bit — you may have a broken toilet anchor flange. As a precaution, pick up a flange repair kit.
  • Speaking of floors, replacing a sheet vinyl floor with something thicker, such as ceramic tile, usually will create a gap between the toilet and the toilet anchor flange. If that’s the case, add a flange spacer to fill the gap. (Heavy duty, thicker wax rings are also available to fill the space.)
  • Once you drain the toilet tank and unhook the water supply, it’s a good time to replace the flush valve. Fixing a leaky valve can save hundreds of gallons of water a day. The savings in water use can pay for this entire project in no time.
  • If you’re removing the toilet because of a leak at the base or water damage in the ceiling of the floor below, inspect that damage before you head to the store. Water can harm a subfloor enough to affect the strength of the mounting bolts attaching the toilet anchor flange — and the toilet — to the floor. Determine whether you need to cut away the damaged subfloor and replace it. Sanitize the area thoroughly.
  • Check the condition of the mounting bolts that attach the toilet to the floor. If they’re corroded, you’ll need a can of penetrating oil to help loosen them. Even if they’re not visibly corroded, plan to replace the bolts as a precaution. Some wax rings come in a kit that includes new mounting bolts.

Drain and Remove the Toilet

Step 1

Shut off the Water Valve

Shut off the water supply to the toilet at the supply-line valve beside the toilet or at the main water source. Then flush and shop vac the water from the tank until it’s dry. Use a plunger to force most of the remaining water in the bowl down the drain and sponge out the rest.

The wet /dry shop vacuum empties toilet tanks and bowls in an instant. Check the manufacturer’s instructions for how to set it up to suction water.

Step 2

Detach the water supply-line hose from the toilet tank and catch any water in the line using a bucket or towels. Loosen and remove the nuts holding the toilet to the floor.

If the bolts have corroded, first apply penetrating oil and allow it to seep over the threads for a few minutes before loosening the bolts. Apply only moderate pressure to loosen the bolts. Anything more may bend or break the toilet anchor flange.

Step 3

Lifting the Toilet

If you’re working in an awkward space or the toilet appears too heavy to lift, consider removing the bolts attaching the tank to the bowl and moving the two parts separately. Before lifting the toilet, place four 2 x 4 x 6 blocks on edge on the floor to hold the toilet drain off the floor. Choose a corner of the bathroom away from the drain to give yourself room to work. Angle the blocks slightly so they won’t tilt as you rest the toilet on them. Carefully lift the toilet while keeping the base parallel to the floor. Check the drain to make sure the old wax ring isn’t still attached. Set the toilet on the blocks.


It’s hard to empty everything from the drain trap that loops from the bowl to the floor drain opening. That’s fine as long as the toilet base remains parallel to the floor, but tilting it back and forth will probably spill water from the trap all over your floor.

Install the New Wax Ring

Step 1

New Bolts

Wear a pair of disposable gloves to remove and discard the old wax ring. (It’s extremely sticky and, let’s face it, was under your toilet for years.) Provide plenty of ventilation and use a plastic putty knife, followed by a rag soaked in mineral spirits, to clean any remaining wax from around the toilet anchor flange and the drain on the bottom of the toilet (if you’re reinstalling it). Remove the old mounting bolts and check the toilet anchor flange for damage.

After you remove the old wax ring, immediately plug the drain with a ball of rags or an old towel large enough that it doesn’t fall into the pipe. An unplugged drain can allow noxious sewer gas to enter your home.

Step 2

Check the Flange

Remove the old bolts from the toilet anchor flange and check the flange for cracks or missing pieces. Install any repair parts or spacers as needed before inserting the new toilet mounting bolts.


You wouldn’t think something as heavy as a toilet could fall over, but it can if not anchored down. A broken flange means a useless anchor bolt, so install a flange repair kit if you notice leaks or wobbles.

Step 3

Press the New Ring Into Place

Again wearing a pair of disposable gloves, press the new wax ring into place around the raised ring at the bottom of the toilet drain on the underside. Seat it firmly enough to hold it in place, but don’t press it out of shape.

Step 4

Lift the toilet with the bowl drain directly over the floor drain and lower it in place with the mounting screws coming up through the holes in the base. Press gently and rock it slightly to help the wax ring form a tight seal.

Step 5

With the toilet base firmly against the floor, attach the washers and nuts holding the toilet in place. Tighten them enough to keep the toilet from rocking — even just a bit. Then add the decorative caps.


Stop tightening the nuts holding the toilet to the floor as soon as they’re snugly in place and keep the toilet from tipping. Too much torque can crack the porcelain or damage the drain flange. (You really don’t want to lift that thing again to make another repair, right?)

Step 6

Apply fresh thread tape to the tank inlet threads and attach the water-supply line to complete the project. As a precaution, check the base of the toilet for leaks an hour after flushing it and again the next day to make sure the ring formed a waterproof seal around the drain.

Good to Know

For cheap insurance against leaks, replace the water line linking your toilet to the water line coming through the wall or floor. Carefully select the correct length and use a high quality braided line for added protection from future leaks or line breaks.

If you find yourself in over your head, give Floodco a call. We can recommend a friendly, affordable and qualified plumber in your area. Our phone is 406 892-1717.
Information for this project is provided by Lowes. They will probably appreciate your patronage and offer additional helpful suggestions in the store.
Posted by Lloy  February 23, 2015

Look What the Mailman Brought Today!

One of our minor chores each day is stopping by the Post Office for mail. When the mail brings Comment Cards from our customers we always appreciate and nearly always thrill to the kind words our customers write.

Comment Card

This comment card above reads:

Thank you for all your help. The guys were very nice and offered advice when asked. Not easy to to get in and out with all the snow–but they did it! Thought the expense was very reasonable!            (Would you refer FloodCo to your friends and family? Yes is circled.)


It matters greatly to us that our customer is satisfied and seriously delighted with the services we provide during the worst experience they may ever have as property owners. Our customers were never planning to call us on the day of the flood or some other disaster like smoke or fire overwhelmed them.

Returning lives to normal as quickly as possible is what we do. Our technicians respond to property loss scenarios that are often unpleasant and very stressful and disruptive to our customers. Hearing that our technicians’ work was appreciated means so much to all our staff!

Thanks to our customers who take a few moments to write and appreciate us and the good value provided.

Posted by Lloy on February 16, 2015. Comments are always welcome if you would like to, please email or call 406 892-1717.

What is Your Mold Prevention Strategy?

Mold inspection photoWhy Do Mold Prevention?

Mold has become such a nightmare for property owners, contractors, suppliers, and employers, that if you haven’t developed a prevention program, you probably should. Particularly if you have any direct or incidental responsibility for residents or tenants or employees and customers. Here is a quick outline for what should be in a basic mold prevention program. It’s not complicated.

You’ll want to craft a written prevention program to educate your organization on the impact mold “liability” can have on the company. Should you wish to insure mold’s risk, the likelihood that any insurance company will offer any mold coverage these days is slim to none. ‘Mold/fungus’ has become a standard exclusion in most property/casualty insurance policies.

How do you get started? What follows is a brief outline of what a mold program can include. This will get you thinking in the proper direction. (If you want to develop a complete staff training program, it would be a good idea to talk to a certified industrial hygienist (CIH) or a mold specialist to address any specific needs of your organization or property.)

1. Mold Awareness

This section provides some background information to site personnel, residents and tenants.

  • Current industry issues with mold.
  • Describe mold/mildew/fungus. How it proliferates, what it looks like, why it exists, where to watch for it, how it smells, etc.
  • Impacts on human health – actual or perception of hazards and symptoms.
  • Risks related to customers or other third parties.
  • Addressing mold awareness with tenants.

2.  Mold Prevention

This section addresses most ways to prevent water from entering the building and should be shared with on-site personnel and tenants.

  • Overall description of how water can get into a structure-leaks, floods, vapor and ventilation deficiencies.
  • Addressing mold issues (and other housekeeping) with company staff or with tenants in your lease agreements.
  • Use of mold resistant materials/products—caulks, paints, sealants, carpets, etc.
  • Notification process for staff or tenants. Do’s and Don’ts on housekeeping.
  • Documentation process.
  • Reducing moisture/water infiltration:
    • Type of construction, specifically with building envelope, type and maintaining roofs.
    • Quality of construction.
    • Sequencing or construction.
    • Quality control of contractors on new construction and maintenance.
    • Are contractors aware of mold issues?
    • Procedures for drying out wet/damp areas. Why urgency matters.
    • Infrared imaging to identify possible areas of water intrusion in building envelope

3.  Mold Control Program

This section addresses the remediation once mold is found in the structure/building. Depending on the extent of the impacted area, experts in the field of indoor air quality or water and mold remediation should be engaged.

  • What do you do if mold is discovered or suspected—documentation, photos, notification, isolating impacted areas.
  • Remediation—evaluating and selecting a remediator, developing reports, referring environmental consultants (should have contacts list), safety (Personal Protection Equipment and the plan for treatment.)
  • Selection of remediation contractor—references, contracts, insurance requirements, statement of qualifications.
  • Areas of concern during remediation:
    • Impact of cleanup
    • Extent of cleanup
    • Cleanup standards
    • Protecting other materials in structure
    • Ventilation and air cleaning


The key element to an organization’s mold program is prevention. Not of mold, but of water intrusion. Mold can too easily become the nasty by-product of the real culprit, water intrusion. In order to truly avoid future mold problems and significant liability, you must be vigilant to prevent water from spilling into or entering your structure. That is usually easier said than done and requires the help and attentiveness of everyone working in or living in the structure.

Please call Floodco LLC for additional help or questions on mold prevention issues.    406 892-1717

Posted by Lloy. Source material from Institute of Risk Management & Insurance.

It’s the Season of the Dreaded Ice Dams! What Do We Do Now?

ice dam on condo roofWhen you live in the cold, snowy region of Northwest Montana, you probably are already aware of the damaging effects of ice dams. This season’s combination of deep snow accumulations and warmer daytime temperatures is raising havoc with hundreds of residents’ roofs and introducing many first time victims to the dreaded ice dam. What can you do to remove and eliminate their cause? Why is this such a serious problem for the house?

Gutters clog up with ice, or melting water running off from the upper roof freezes and forms a 3-12 inch high ridge or ‘dam’ of ice along colder lower roof edges. When water gets trapped behind the ‘dam’ it can back up, seeping beneath the shingles or around valley flashing, finds it way through the sheathing, then dripping, even pouring down into the home’s interior.

Water suddenly appears inside the home as a dripping ceiling, wall or wet floor covering. It is then urgent to fix the ice problem and thoroughly dry the structure! One time or repeatedly wet building materials will degrade, potentially leading to mold growth and very expensive structural repairs!

A permanent fix for ice dams usually requires increasing the insulation, roof sealing, and improving ventilation inside the attic. Often, installing electric heat tape is a prescription for problem areas on the lower roof and valleys or inside gutters and downspouts. Of course, these longer term solutions are difficult to accomplish quickly on a frozen roof and usually must wait to be done in a warmer season.

Temporary relief involves mechanically removing all or parts of the ice ridge with pressurized steam, claw hammers or other tools. Raking or shoveling snow off the roof is necessary to slow additional snow melt. These tactics are darn dangerous and beyond the ability of most homeowners or tenants. It is best to call in a roofing pro to tackle any work requiring roof or gutter access. Experienced and fully insured professional roofers are not the easiest contractors to locate, so be prepared to make several phone calls and grovel for a place on their waiting list.

One inexpensive thing you can try  is this simple trick to slow or even stop the dripping after a dam has formed. Fill the leg of old pair of panty hose or similar light nylon mesh material with a calcium chloride type ice melt chemical. Tie the ends and lay this floppy ice melt ‘tube’ across and behind the ice dam and overhanging into the gutter.

If possible, use a long-handled pole with a hook, a garden rake or hoe, to drape the ice melt ‘tube’ into position. Once in full contact with ice, the calcium chloride will begin to melt through and create a channel for water to flow from behind and through the ice dam. Chipping some of the ice to form a cup in the ice dam and using multiple ice melt ‘tubes’ along the length of the roof edge reportedly improves the speed of melting and effectiveness. 

Added, important advice is Be Very Careful — No ice dam or dripping ceiling is worth getting seriously injured or killed over. Falls from ladders and slippery roofs are too frequently fatal. 

For the crucial step of drying the structure below the roof, including sheetrock, lumber and flooring materials, please give FLOODCO LLC a call at 406 892-1717.

Bet You Didn’t Know This About Germs On Objects You Touch A Lot!

(This excellent info is courtesy of  BRUCO, the Billings, MT based distributor of cleaning supplies and equipment for commercial and institutional organizations.)
Tis the season that we all get closed up in buildings together which increases our risk of bringing home and spreading sickness to our families.
In a study of 400 managers and employees conducted by HLW International LLP (Journal Buildings, 1999), employees’ productivity levels were determined to be heavily influenced by the cleanliness of the office in which they worked.
The study found that cleaning has a very real and measurable value, specifically reporting a 5 percent productivity gain ($125,000) in a 100 associate office with an average salary of $25,000.
While you might presume that a toilet seat is one of the most highly infectious parts of your building, think again.  Be aware of these frequently used areas that are highly responsible for transmitting bacteria and viruses.
45 germs per sq inch –Office Toilet Seats
3200 germs per sq inch — School Toilet Seats
1676 germs per sq. inch — Computer Mouse
3300 germs per sq. inch — Keyboard
12,000 germs per sq. inch — Office Desktop
25,000 germs per sq. inch — Office Telephones
2,700,000 bacteria per sq inch — Water Fountain Spigot
Some other culprits are:
  • School desktops which have 400 times more germs per sq. inch than a toilet seat!!
  • Touch screen and credit card swipe terminals which are practically standard at grocery stores, retail stores, and restaurants
  • Restroom and any other door knobs
  • Bathroom hand rails
  • Toilet flush handles
  • Sinks
  • Elevator buttons
  • Chair arm rests including the underpart of the arm rest
And don’t forget the company break room.  Kitchens typically have a much higher level of bacteria than the restrooms and if you use a sponge, throw it away.  It carries the highest rate of bacteria, more than any other surface.  In the workplace, the safest thing to go with is disinfectant disposable wipes.
It’s important to review and train your staff on the importance of disinfecting these highly touched objects daily or several times a day depending on the traffic the area gets.  A disinfectant will kill 99.9% of pathogenic agents.
Dwell times are very important.  School desks can have up to 400 times the amount of bacteria as a toilet seat.  Be aware of the dwell times and don’t move too quickly through your cleaning tasks as it may just cancel out what your intention was.  A disinfectant has to have time to work.  This can be as low as 2 minutes if using a disinfectant like Perisept.  (Longer for weak consumer formulations.)
Consider what happens when you clean a surface by spraying and wiping. First of all, you won’t get complete coverage and the misting of chemicals is not something you want to breathe.  Take a look at this example of using pretreated microfiber in a patient room.  This method evenly distributes the disinfectant and ensures adequate dwell time.
Cleaning a Patient Room with Microfiber -- BRUCO, Inc.
Cleaning a Patient Room with Microfiber — BRUCO, Inc
This is much quicker since you’re not dealing with a mop and bucket for the floors and you’re not spraying and wiping.  It cuts out several steps of the cleaning process which means you’ll have more time to go after more of those highly touched objects throughout your facility.
Supply your staff with convenient disinfectant wipes to clean their desks, phone, keyboards and mice at the end of each day since desk areas are usually off limits to the cleaning staff.
Everyone has to work together to keep infections at bay.  You can’t solely rely on the cleaning staff to cover all surfaces frequently enough.  Each department should have best practices that they follow to help carry the load.  Staff should also be encouraged to stay home if they are sick.
Floodco LLC wishes you the healthiest and happiest of holiday seasons – and every other season in 2015!
Posted by Lloy       Please comment in the reply space below or email